Just a short trek today, from Tsacharang our trail drops and then climbs a small ridge which offers us the first view of our fabled destination, Lo Monthang - a walled city nestled on the 'Plain of Aspiration'. Our approach passes many Chortens as well as caves used for meditation by Lamas (priests). The city itself has only one gateway, through which only the King may ride, all others must walk. We spend the afternoon exploring the 600 year old town which is crammed with about 150 houses and 3 of the most impressive Tibetan Gompas in Nepal.
The walled city of Lo Monthang was established as the capital of Lo by Raja Ame Pal in the 1380's. The people of Lo Monthang avoid building homes outside of the city walls believing that bad spirits will cause havoc in their households if they do. Such superstitions are maintained by the Lamas (priests) who circumambulate the city during festivals blessing the walls as they go. The current Raja, 'Lo Gyelbu', named Jigme Palbar Bista, fulfils a mainly ceremonial role when in residence although he is loved and respected throughout his Kingdom. It is said that he keeps some of the best horses in Mustang, Lhasa Apsos and some of the most ferocious Tibetan mastiffs. The Raja's palace is an imposing 4-story building in the centre of the city. It is the home of the present Raja, Jigme Palbar Bista, and the queen or Rani, who is from an aristocratic family of Lhasa.

Our morning begins with an excursion to Gharphu Gompa in a valley to the east of Lo Monthang. The 2 hour walk takes us past the dramatic cave village of Chosar, a village on the Tibet trade route, and is dominated by the red Nyphu Gompa which is built into the rock face. On our return we visit Nyphu Gompa and then explore a couple of small tracks which lead up to great views of Lo Monthang - one of which is a ruined fortress! We return to Lo Monthang to continue our exploration of the city's many sights.
The tall Champa Lakhang ("Lakhang" translates as "god house") is said to date from the 1940's and is accessible only on the second story. The central courtyard with its carved wooden pillars has fallen into disrepair. Inside the temple is a huge painted clay statue of Maitreya, the future Buddha, sitting on a pedestal that occupies the entire ground floor. The walls are painted with elaborate mandalas, almost two metres in diameter, that are in marginally better condition than the paintings in Thugchen Gompa.
The red Thugchen Gompa which dominates Lo Monthang is near the centre of the city, a massive assembly hall supported by huge columns dating from the same period as Champa Lakhang. There are statues of Sakyamuni surrounded by Avaloketasvara, Vaisravana (the god of wealth) and Padmasambhava. One wall of the temple is completely destroyed; on the other walls are intricate frescoes in various stages of deterioration. The entrance hall contains huge scowling statues of four Lokapala, the protectors of the cardinal points of compass.
The other two temples are within the monastic quarter, which is the domain of several large growling Tibetan Mastiffs. Secure the services of a monk before you even attempt to enter this part of the city. The main temple is the Chyodi Gompa, which contains dozens of beautifully crafted small bronze, brass and copper statues, many said to have been cast in Lo Manthang itself. The monks prohibit taking photographs of these statues in an apparent bid to limit interest in them among collectors of stolen art. Nearby is the older assembly hall, which contains little else than the images of the three Sakyapa Lamas.

Our day begins with another excursion, taking a trail that leads from the northerly corner of the city wall a track leads off to the western valley. We first climb up to the new and busy Namgyal Gompa (Monastery of Victory) set atop a desolate ridge. We then drop back to the main trail and head up to the Raja's summer palace at Tingkhar and the Kimaling and Phuwa Gompas. We return to Lo Monthang in the afternoon to finish visiting the main sights, or revisiting our favourite places.

Tsethang is Tibet's third largest city and legend has it that the nearby Yarlung Valley is the cradle of the Tibetan civilisation. According to tradition, the first king descended from heaven and lived in the Yumbu Lagang, an eerie mediaeval castle reputed to be the oldest building in Tibet. The surrounding fertile valley is a beautiful back-drop to this fascinating region and if we have time we will try to get to Samye, Tibet's first monastery across the river.

Our day begins by crossing a minor pass into the Geling valley - we have now completed a small circuit in the Land of Lo. We now descend to Samar following our initial route.