Now we begin to feel the altitude! Our trail climbs up towards the Tibetan plateau and there is a noticeable change in the people and dwellings. We pass the final Nepali check post at Yari before reaching our camp for a good nights rest at Sipsip.

Another day of uphill grind to the Nara La (pass) - one of the lowest into Tibet from Nepal - where we can enjoy a view of the arid mountains of Tibet rolling away across the plateau before us contrasting with the verdant Saipal and Api Himal behind us. Then it's downhill to the border post at Taklakot (Purang in Tibetan) and after formalities on to our camp.

We begin our pilgrimage to this most sacred region with an obligatory trip to Manasarovar and the opportunity to visit the Chiu (Little Bird) Gompa - a stunning monastery which is where Guru Rimpoche spent his last seven days on earth. It is an imposing site with Mt Kailash in the background. And if you are feeling up to it then take a ritual dip in the lake to wash away the sins of a hundred lifetimes!

We now head to Darchen for our Kora of Mt Kailash. Darchen means 'flag pole' and is the traditional starting point of the Kora, but it is not a great camping spot so we will continue towards Sershung - about three hours along the trail. This first section of the Kora is famous for the annual Saga Dawa Festival (usually around May) which celebrates the enlightenment of Bhudda. We also pass Drachom Ngagye Durto sky-burial site where there is also the first of the Bhudda footprints. We then cross into the scenic Lha Chu valley a stunning desert valley with crystal streams and Mt Kailash towering above.

Today is a short trekking section which allows us time to explore either/both the Chuku Gompa and the Drira Phuk Gompa. Throughout the day the Lha Chu valley narrows and our trail steepens a little as we begin to round the northern face of Mt Kailash. Also if time permits we will climb up to the Ganjam Chu valley (about 3 hour round trip) which has some excellent views of the Kailash massif rising above the Ganjam Chu glacier.

After an early breakfast we start to climb up hill to a large 'sin-testing' boulder which has a narrow passage beneath - only those who are free of sin can squeeze through! The pass is now only about an hour away and our breathing becomes laborious as we climb the switchbacks. The Drolma La is spectacular despite not having views of Mt Kailash - prayer flags attached to the sacred Drolma Do (Rock of Tara) festoon the pass and from here the atmosphere becomes festive as we head downhill. We head down to Gauri Kunde (Bathing Pool of Compassion) where only the Hindu pilgrims take a ritual bath if it is not too icy! Then it's steeply down hill to the grassy meadows along side the Lham Chu where the trail becomes easier as we descend to Zutrul Phuk (Cave of Miracles) Gompa - a meditation cave containing an image of Milarepa.