| Introduction:
Climb Everest (8,848 Meters)
Everest is perhaps the most coveted
mountain in the world. The south (Nepalese) side is
the route first climbed by Tenzing and Hillary in 1953,
and the dates we have chosen feature the best weather
of the year. Our proposed schedule allows for two potential
summit attempts.
This longer approach to Mt Everest
follows in the footsteps of the early expeditions but
with a slight variation. To avoid the long bus drive
to the original trailhead of Jiri we fly into Phaplu
to begin our trek through the much quieter Solu region
of the Solu-Khumbu.We cross the Trakshindo La before
descending towards the raging river of the Dudh Kosi.We
follow the "milk river” north through terraced
hillsides and small villages to join the main Everest
trail below Lukla. By now you will have had time to
adjust to life on the trail and with the benefits of
increased fitness make the ascent to Namche Bazaar.
Once in the Khumbu region the mountain views improve
with every step-Kwangde,Thamserku, Nuptse, Lhotse, Ama
Dablam ,the "horse saddle" of Kanteiga and
of course the summit of Everest itself. We allow ample
time for acclimatisation and exploration of the area
in preparation for the ascent of Kala Pattar (5545m).
A dawn departure from Lobuche sees us wending our way
through glacial moraine until the peak comes into view.
Finally we reach the summit to be rewarded with the
famous view of the south face of Everest. We return
via a different route through Pangboche to Lukla for
the spectacular flight back to Kathmandu.
This expedition to Everest maximizes
many years of accumulated wisdom of the high Himalaya,
a strong record of reaching Everest, K2, Kangchenjunga,
and many other 8,000 meter summits, along with an intimate
knowledge of the Nepalese officials who regulate the
permit system. We must also give credit to the highly
experienced and hard-working climbing Sherpas, cooking
and office staff.
Detailed Description
The trip begins in the ancient and colorful city of
Kathmandu, and the staff will personally meet your flight
at Tribhuvan airport. You stay in a comfortable, simple,
clean hotel, and sample some of the tasty Nepalese,
Tibetan and Western-Style cuisine, at minimal expense.
During our free day in Kathmandu, we shall finalize
arrangements, and take some time out for trinket hunting,
with planned visits to explore the 17th century splendors
of the Monkey Temple, the Durbar Square and old Kings
Palace, as well as the ancient city of Patan.
We will continue our trek up to Namche
Bazaar (3446m), the capital of the Sherpa Kingdom. Here
we rest for a day to acclimate, and then proceed up
to Debouche (3757m) for a night, then to Lobuche (4930m),
where we have another acclimatization day. Finally,
we make the last trek to base camp at 5300 meters. After
resting, organizing, and training in base camp for a
day, we will begin our climb. We start with a day hike
through the awe inspiring Khumbu Icefall, followed by
a trip to the plateau of the Western Cwm, for our first
glimpse of Camp 1, at 5800 meters. We return to base
camp for a tasty dinner, prepared by our skilled cooks.
Tent lashed to its platform in camp 3 at 7200 meters
Climber in the Lhotse Face at 8100 meters during an
early summit attempt.
Climbing at 8400 meters above the Kangshung
Face
Through the following weeks, we will
climb up and down the mountain, exploring the route,
establishing camps, and carefully and safely building
our acclimatization level. From camp 1 at 6000 meters,
the route traverses the flattish bottom of the Western
Cwm, to 6200 meters where camp 2 is located. Camp three
is on the head wall of the Lhotse face at about 7200
meters. The south Col is the highest camp, and at 8000
meters it is a windy and cold place. We take our time,
climbing up and down to acclimate, which gives us the
best chance to ascend in safety and maximize our opportunity
to reach the summit during the "weather windows"
which generally open in May. The route to the summit
winds through snow ice and rock fields, at a 10 to 50
degree angle. These slopes are not considered technical,
but there is exposed rock here in the spring, and lines
are often fixed. Fixed rope is often placed on the small
vertical pitch of the 6 meter high Hillary step, and
the summit lies directly above. Truly the most classic
route on the world's most classic mountain.
Looking up at the summit from the
south col. climbing at 8400 meters above the Kangshung
Face. Approaching the Hillary Step. Climbing on the
Hillary Step
The view from the summit, looking west
to Cho Oyu, Shishapangma, Pumori, and many others.
As a fully registered company, Pema Treks & Expeditions
Pvt. Ltd is fully covered by crew insurance and company
guarantees. Our expedition guides, leaders and climbing
staff are fully qualified and very experienced on all
major routes on trekking and high altitude peaks. We
are proud of our ability to guide you through even the
most technical terrain with the safest possible methods.
We ensure that our prices are very competitive without
compromising your safety, comfort, or chance of summiting.
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